Meat Sauce

Taste buds are a funny thing. To say that I was a picky eater during my formative years is a colossal understatement. I subsisted mainly on cereal and PB&H sandwiches (honey girl all the way – to this day I do not touch jelly). Additional food groups, consumed during my youth were: meat and potatoes (English dad), tamales and popcorn (Venezuelan mom) and massive quantities of pasta (swimmer). As an early-college student I lived off of pretty pasta, cereal, PB&H, Totino’s pizza rolls, Taco Bell (a fact which is possibly one of the greatest regrets of my life to date) and Chick-fil-a. The list of foods that I would not eat was as long as the Monday after the Superbowl until my mid-twenties. On that list: any tomato-based sauce.

I never ate tomato sauce. EVER. I ordered pizza sans sauce. I pitched fits, reusing to eat anything that I even thought included tomato sauce (this lead to many full-blown tantrums over lasagna that I refused to eat even out of politeness at friends of my parents). In all fairness, my tomato sauce aversion was not irrational picky-ness. When I was 11, I got the flu after spaghetti night and threw up red sauce for three days (all over white carpet much to my mother’s dismay). From that day forth,  the sight of tomato sauce sickened me. Until the past year. I started small, eating my pizza with a light layer of tomato sauce, dipping my Rocket Pockets in Meaty Porcini Marinara and eating copious amounts of tomato soup. But recently, I have been on a full blown tomato-based sauce kick. I have experimented with Pomodoro sauce, but my biggest craving (and it is a damn strong one) has been for meat sauce. So strong this craving has been that I made meat sauce four times in five weeks (and hoarded every batch). This intense craving is [thankfully] not pregnancy craving-related, so I have only by taste buds to blame – however bewildered that makes me (and anyone who has known me longer than a year or two).

I have altered the versions a couple times and each one has been sensational. I personally like my veg to be a little less processed because I like to bite into a carrot every now and then, but feel free to process the heck out of the veggies to make the sauce more silken. I added miso paste to two batches to up the umami factor with very tasty results. Between the umami-packed miso and the Parmesan cheese rind, which lends a unique depth of flavor that cannot be emulated, the meat sauce has that awesome “Je ne sais quoi” quality that coaxes you to have bite after bite. Whether that is a good or bad thing is up to you (I do know that I have put on some pounds that are directly correlated to my increased sausage intake). Feel free to include miso and rinds if you have them on hand, but the meat sauce will be just as spectacular in their absence. Brief side note, you can now buy Parmesan cheese rinds at HEB.

In an effort to cut calories and ingest something of nutritional value, I typically eat my meat sauce with spaghetti squash versus pasta. Feel free to use fresh or dried pasta, squash, polenta or baked potatoes as your meat sauce vessel. I actually ate meat sauce soup on a least 10 different occasions. Don’t judge – I  love my meat.

 Meat Sauce 

Serves 4-6 (or one if you are me)

meat sauce

One medium yellow onion

One and one-half large carrots, peeled and cut into one-inch pieces

One celery stalk, cut into one-inch pieces

Ten garlic cloves

One 28-ounce can of whole peeled tomatoes

One pint Cherry Tomatoes, divided

One-Fourth cup Olive Oil

Kosher Salt and Freshly Ground Black Pepper To taste

Crushed Red Pepper, to taste

One-Half Cup Flat Leaf Parsley

Two Tablespoons Fresh Oregano

One pound hot Italian Pork Sausage (bulk or removed from casings)

One pound ground beef

One tablespoon tomato paste (plus a squeeze or two more)

One scant tablespoon Miso Paste (mellow) Optional

One Parmesan Rind (optional)

Two cups water (or beef stock)

One spaghetti squash, halved, seasoned and roasted

Ten Basil Leaves, Julienned

Three-fourths cup Pecorino Romano

In a large food processor, pulse onion, garlic, celery, carrot, oregano, and parsley and pulse until finely ground.  Transfer to a small bowl and reserve. Using the food processor, puree the tomatoes (juices included) until smooth. Heat oil in a large dutch oven (or other heavy pot) and add sausage and cook until browned (about four minutes). Add beef seasoned with salt, pepper and Italian seasoning (latter being optional) and brown until no longer pink. Transfer meat to a plate using a slotted spoon and reserve. Add reserved veggie mix to the pan, season with salt, and cook for about eight minutes (stir often). Combine tomato paste with one cup of water (or stock) in a small bowl and add to the pan, scraping the bottom bits. Reduce heat and simmer until liquid is nearly evaporated. Add tomato puree, crushed red pepper, half of the cherry tomatoes, one [additional] cup water – or stock – and the browned meat to the pan and bring to a boil. Upon achieving a boil, immediately reduce heat to a simmer. Add more water as necessary to ensure that the meat remains nearly submerged the entire cooking time.

Once the meat sauce has simmered for two to three hours, add the cheese rind and miso paste if using. Check for salt and pepper content and adjust as necessary throughout the cooking process. Simmer for an additional two to three hours and remove from heat. Roast remaining cherry tomatoes with olive oil, salt and pepper whilst the squash is roasting. Serve with roasted spaghetti squash (or other meat sauce vessel of choosing), topped with Pecorino Romano and Basil.

Southwest Chicken Chile Stew

Accidents happen. Luckily, those accidents can sometimes turn out better than original intention. Take,  for example, this stew. It was an accident and the direct result of indecisiveness. It is also example of one of the [very] few times that indecisiveness has worked in my favor. Almost like the light bulb went off in the pan. To be fair, the ridiculous sale ($1.50/lb) that Whole Foods had on organic, bone-in chicken breast was also to blame as I bought enough to feed an army with virtually no free freezer space. I needed to make something that used a large amount of chicken and, preferably, something I could eat all week and freeze – most likely in someone else’s freezer –  if there was any remaining. I was torn between making a green chili chicken stew, which I love ( and also because my mom just passed off a Costco-sized jar of green chilis to me) and making something similar to Red Lentil and Veggie Soup (because it was so damn good the first go round). The result was that many of the same ingredients went into the pan with southwestern spices versus the Asian infusion that made the lentil soup delightful. That said, southwest spices are something to write home about as well so everyone wins. The addition of corn, spinach, and kale  (and my need to remove stuff from the freezer to accommodate the copious amounts of chicken I had purchased) also had a hand in steering me away from green chile chicken. However, I did use a hefty amount of green chilis in a futile attempt to put a dent in the ones given to me. In the end, the accidental stew turned out quite robust and flavorful. I hope did the Southwest proud.

Note: The reasons I did not use the same beans was because I only had those two cans and some Garbanzo beans on hand. Use whatever beans you like! Personally, I have a thing for kidney beans – but I do not discriminate. I am a bonafide bean freak. Yes I know, we all know about my obsession with beans…

Southwest Chicken Chile Stew

Serves four-six, plus leftovers

One can each Kidney Beans, Cannellini, and Garbanzo beans, drained and rinsed
One bag frozen corn (or canned)
Four bone in chicken breasts
Two cups frozen or fresh Kale
Three cups frozen or fresh Spinach
Six Carrots, cut into semi-thick slices
Two Onions, diced
Ten cloves garlic, minced
Two Bay leaves
Eight quarts chicken stock, preferably homemade
Two tablespoons Ground Cumin (adjust to taste)
Half-tablespoon Cayenne (adjust to taste)
Two tablespoons Ground Coriander
One tablespoon Oregano
Two cups fresh Cilantro
Two cups leftover Spaghetti Squash (optional)
One can Diced Tomatoes with Garlic
One cup (to one and a half) Chopped Green Chilis
Juice of one lemon

 *I did not add celery to my mirepoix which means I must not have had it on hand. Incorporate it if you like.

Season the chicken breasts with salt and pepper (additional spicing as desired) and brown in a good amount of  oil a large dutch oven. Once browned on each side, remove meat from pan and reserve. Add the mirepoix (carrots, onion, garlic) with a pinch of salt and sauté until onion becomes glassy. Add a cup of the chicken stock and deglaze the pot for a minute or so, then add remainder of chicken stock, the tomatoes, and the green chilis to the pot. Add the cumin, coriander, cayenne, bay leaves, oregano, a good couple pinches salt, and any additional seasoning that you desire. Return the chicken to the pot and simmer, covered, for up to four hours. Thirty minutes before you plan to remove the stew from heat, add in one cup of the fresh cilantro, beans, and the juice of half the lemon. Test for seasoning and adjust accordingly. Ten minutes before removing from heat add the spaghetti squash, frozen corn, kale and spinach. Add additional lemon juice as desired or necessary. Garnish with remaining cilantro when serving.

Blonde Gumbo

Blonde Gumbo

My wonderful friend Bonnie, our resident NOLA transplant, makes the best gumbo! As soon as she gives me her recipe, I will be replacing this one almost immediately. That said, one week I was craving gumbo. I was stressed out and generally when that happens, I spend a lot of time in grocery stores planning a lot of dishes that I will cook for that week. The problem is, naturally, I plan these meals on my day off when I am not as stressed, as tired, or as bogged down by the day-today bustle. This week I planned to make gumbo and eat it for a couple days, in addition to two fish dishes and loads of chicken pesto salad, veggies, and fruit. Sounds great in theory…keep reading….by the time that I got around to making the gumbo my kitchen was nearly packed as I was moving three days later. So instead of working out, doing hour 14 of my 15 hour workday, or packing, I was laboring for nearly an hour over a roux (which I had wrong from the beginning). This is the definition of “rational” in Andiland. Apparently, three degrees and nearly 100k in college costs cannot buy you common sense…but that is another story….

The gumbo came out very tasty – it did not however taste exactly like gumbo due to the roux failing to brown because I was too scatter-brained to do it properly. However, the soup was tasty and gumbo-like if nothing else and there was a ton of it.

Note: As much as I love seafood, I dislike seafood gumbo – crime, I know. I always use or eat chicken or duck and sausage gumbo. Make yours whatever way you like.

Blonde Gumbo

Serves 6

Two cups Roux, recipe follows
Two cups diced onions
One cup diced celery
One green bell pepper, diced
One pound Okra, washed sliced into 1/8 inch pieces
Four tablespoons finely chopped garlic
Three quarts chicken broth (preferably homemade)
One pound Bone In chicken thighs or quarters
One pound chicken breasts, bone in
Three or four links of Andouille sausage, sliced into 1/4-inch thick rounds, browned in a skillet, and drained on paper towels
Two bay leaves
One tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
One tablespoon (or more to taste) Tabasco hot sauce
Cayenne to taste
A couple good pinches of salt
One tablespoon freshly ground black pepper
One bunch green onion, chopped
Half-cup coarsely chopped parsley
2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme leaves
1/2 cup file powder, or to taste
Pinch each of: Paprika, Oregano, Garlic and Onion Powder (to taste)
Steamed White Rice and Crusty French Bread, for serving

*Make Roux first. I have included Emeril Lagasse’s roux directions, because I am not the person who should be telling you how to make at roux –yet.

Emeril Lagasse’s How to Roux:

3 cups oil
5 cups flour

Place a dutch oven, (or iron skillet with deep sides) over medium heat and heat the oil until just smoking. Whisk in flour, a little at a time and cook, whisking constantly, until roux becomes smooth and thick. Continue to cook, constantly stirring with a wooden spoon and reaching all over bottom of pan, until roux darkens to desired color. Be careful not to produce specs of black. The roux must remain an even color throughout process. If specs appear you must start over.

For a Light Brown Roux, cook the mixture, over medium heat for 1 1/2 hours, or until the color of peanut butter. Remove about 1 cup of the light colored roux, cool completely.

For a Medium Brown Roux, cook the mixture, over medium heat for an additional 30 minutes, or until the color of a copper penny when ready. Remove about 13/4 cups of the medium colored roux, cool completely.

For a Dark Brown Roux, cook the mixture an additional 35 to 45 minutes. The color should resemble dark chocolate when ready. Remove all of the remaining dark roux from the pan and cool completely.

Yield: about 4 1/2 cups roux

NOTE: The timings for various shades of roux will vary depending on the cooktop as well as the amount of roux made. (A smaller amount will cook in much less time.) If this is your first time making a roux, the slower you cook it, the less likely you will be to burn it. The important thing is to cook the roux to the desired color, as specified above.

For Gumbo stew

Season the chicken with salt, pepper, and Cajun seasoning of choice. Sear chicken on both sides until just brown in a large dutch oven/stock pot, working in batches as necessary. Remove chicken from pan and reserve. Add sausage links to the pan (before slicing them) and brown well. Remove, cool, and slice. Add the roux to the pot and heat over medium heat, adding the onions, garlic, celery, bell pepper and a pinch of salt when hot. Saute for about five minutes.Slowly pour in stock, whisking constantly to prevent lumps from forming. Add the chicken, browned sausage, bay leaves, Worcestershire, Tabasco, cayenne and other herbs and seasonings, salt, and pepper. After about an hour, add green onions and parsley. In a separate pan, flash fry the okra and then add to the soup. Slowly add file powder and sprinkle and stir well for about two minutes. Remove from heat and serve with rice and crusty, hot French bread.

Beef and Barley Soup

I love beef and barley soup. I usually just buy a cup or two from Central Market (who makes a dang good version), but, during a recent freezer inventory I realized I had a lot of rump roast that needed using and opted to make my own version. You can add more (veggie wise) to this hearty soup  to up the nutrition ante, if you like. It is filling and perfect for cold winter nights. If you have homemade, good quality beef stock – this is a great showcase for it. If not, make sure to use a good-quality boxed broth (and/or some demi glace) for good depth.

Beef and Barley Soup

Serves Four to Eight 

One pound rump roast, cut into half-inch dice
One and one-half cups Hulled Barley
Six carrots, cut into large dice
Two yellow onions, cut into large dice
Twelve garlic cloves, minced
Two bay leaves
Five sprigs fresh thyme (more if desired)
Two sprigs fresh oregano
Three fresh sage leaves
Three celery stalks, cut into thin dice
Four tablespoons crushed red pepper
One pound mushrooms (I used white), quartered
One pound butternut squash, cut into quarter-inch cubes
One to two cups robust red wine or Burgundy (or white wine)
Three to Four quarts beef stock
Salt and Pepper to taste

Toss beef cubes with a good amount of salt, pepper, Italian herb blend, and cayenne. Heat a glug of olive oil in a large dutch oven over medium heat. Brown meat on all sides and remove from pan. Deglaze pan with a bit of red wine, beef broth, or Burgundy wine – scraping the brown bits on the  bottom up. Add onions and garlic (with a pinch of salt) and saute until glassy. Add celery, carrots, bay leaves, thyme, red pepper flakes and about a cup of red/white/or Burgundy wine. After about five minutes, add the beef broth, the reserved meat, mushrooms and barley. Turn heat to simmer and let it cook away for at least three hours. Taste occasionally and season to taste. About one and a half hours before serving, put butternut squash in the pot and stir well. Feel free to add peas or spinach in the last five minutes before serving if you wish to use them.  Serve with crusty bread.

Leftover Turkey-Noodle Soup

This year, D and I were lucky enough to have two thanksgivings (however unlucky our waistlines were). Of course, this means that we had enough leftovers to feed an army battalion. In my family, we have egg noodles for the holidays (just once we went without and my parents have still not heard the end of it). My grandmother used to make them from scratch, but somewhere along the line frozen Reames Egg Noodles (which are exactly the same and much less hassle) replaced the homemade version – not that you will hear any Haughtons complaining. This year my sister was unable to make it back from North Carolina to gorge on Thanksgiving dinner with us, causing me much sorrow but allowing me to be the sole recipient of the mound of leftover noodles. Normally, I would be in Noodle Heaven, however, I have been training for the past several weeks and my trainer requires a food log – which clearly cannot contain endless bowls of my favorite carb-o-licious treat. So I thought of ways to use up my leftovers in a healthy and satisfying way. The end result was Turkey Noodle Soup with added veggies. I have been on a pretty darn serious soup/stew kick lately (who knew Texas would be cold in December?), ergo soup was the only logical (in oh so illogical Andiland) choice for leftover use. Ideally, I would have liked to use the [two] turkey carcasses that I now have waiting for me in freezers (neither of which is located in Austin) to make a rich broth for the soup – but our car was packed to the gills and there was no room. If you were able to make some turkey broth with your carcass, I highly recommend taking it out of the freezer to make this recipe. Otherwise, a good homemade chicken broth will work perfectly.

Note: You can buy Reames Egg Noodles (or wide-flat dumplings) at various places, though both my mom and I have been having trouble finding them over the years. I found them at Central Market and I think that she found them at Walmart (believe me it is the first time in my life I did not pitch a fit about contributing to Walmart’s cash flow).

Leftover Turkey-Noodle Soup

Serves Three to Four

Two cups leftover Turkey
Three cups leftover Reames Egg Noodles
Two Cups leftover Roasted Butternut squash
One cup leftover Peas (optional)
Two quarts good quality Chicken or Turkey Stock
One Cup Zucchini
Two Cups Carrots, diced
Four to Five cups Spinach (or Chard, Kale, or mixture)
Two white onions, diced
One head garlic, minced
One bouquet garni (with fresh sage, oregano, thyme and a one sprig of rosemary)
Two tablespoons freshly ground black pepper
Salt to taste
Red pepper to taste

In a large dutch oven heat a bit of oil over medium heat. Add onions and garlic and saute (with a pinch of salt) until glassy.  Add carrots and bouquet garni, followed by stock. Add additional seasoning (pepper, salt, red pepper) and simmer for up to two hours. Add squash, zucchini, turkey, and noodles and simmer until heated through (maybe 15 minutes). Add spinach (or mixture) and peas and simmer until wilted.  Taste and season as desired before serving!

Pulled Duck, Lamb and White Bean Stew

Recently (technically November 16th), we went to a lovely local bistro called Blue Dahlia for my dear friend Sarah’s birthday celebration. Their special for the evening was a play on Cassoulet (a classic french dish that can cure just about any ailment). It was a thick pulled duck, lamb sausage, white bean stew with a wonderfully spicy tomato-based stew pungent with fresh herbs (though had markedly less broth than my version). Even though I am dieting and trying to reduce the amount of food I eat, I at EVERY bite and then proceeded to lick the bowl. Clearly, I would have to replicate this dish (if possible). Luckily, they were gracious enough to tell me the main ingredients. Eventually, I will confit the duck and make an actual cassoulet, but right now I am changing jobs, preparing for the holidays, and trying to bang out my last papers of grad school so cassoulet will have to wait. Not that I mind much; the stew turned out quite amazing and I could smell it cooking down the hall from my apartment. It was so good in fact, I ate my first bowl with a few hard beans in it because I could not take the smell of it anymore.

Pulled Duck, Lamb and White Bean Stew

Serves at least Four

Two Duck Leg quarters
Half pound of Lamb shoulder, cut into one inch pieces (or one link Hot Italian lamb sausage)
Two Cups Great Northern or Navy Beans, soaked overnight
Three large tomatoes, quartered and roughly seeded
Three tablespoons crushed red pepper
Two Tablespoons Black Pepper
Salt to taste
Two tablespoons demi-glace du canard
One Large white onion, roughly diced
Bouquet garni of fresh Thyme Sprigs, Oregano, Sage, and Rosemary
One head garlic, roughly chopped
One cup dry white wine
Four cups Chicken Stock
One tablespoon tomato paste (more if desired)
Parmesan Rind (if you have one on hand)
Additionally garlic or garlic powder if desired

In a large dutch oven, sear the duck and lamb after seasoning it with salt and pepper. Remove from pan and heat onions and garlic until glassy. Pour in wine and just boil off. Return the meat to the pan and add crushed red pepper, bouquet garni, stock, tomato paste, demi glace, black pepper, a couple good pinches of salt, beans, and tomatoes. Let it hang out in the pan on a low heat for about 6 hours; it will start smelling all kinds of amazeballs. Taste test occasionally and add seasoning as desired. Serve with fresh herbs of choice and some crusty bread for soaking.