Meat Sauce

Taste buds are a funny thing. To say that I was a picky eater during my formative years is a colossal understatement. I subsisted mainly on cereal and PB&H sandwiches (honey girl all the way – to this day I do not touch jelly). Additional food groups, consumed during my youth were: meat and potatoes (English dad), tamales and popcorn (Venezuelan mom) and massive quantities of pasta (swimmer). As an early-college student I lived off of pretty pasta, cereal, PB&H, Totino’s pizza rolls, Taco Bell (a fact which is possibly one of the greatest regrets of my life to date) and Chick-fil-a. The list of foods that I would not eat was as long as the Monday after the Superbowl until my mid-twenties. On that list: any tomato-based sauce.

I never ate tomato sauce. EVER. I ordered pizza sans sauce. I pitched fits, reusing to eat anything that I even thought included tomato sauce (this lead to many full-blown tantrums over lasagna that I refused to eat even out of politeness at friends of my parents). In all fairness, my tomato sauce aversion was not irrational picky-ness. When I was 11, I got the flu after spaghetti night and threw up red sauce for three days (all over white carpet much to my mother’s dismay). From that day forth,  the sight of tomato sauce sickened me. Until the past year. I started small, eating my pizza with a light layer of tomato sauce, dipping my Rocket Pockets in Meaty Porcini Marinara and eating copious amounts of tomato soup. But recently, I have been on a full blown tomato-based sauce kick. I have experimented with Pomodoro sauce, but my biggest craving (and it is a damn strong one) has been for meat sauce. So strong this craving has been that I made meat sauce four times in five weeks (and hoarded every batch). This intense craving is [thankfully] not pregnancy craving-related, so I have only by taste buds to blame – however bewildered that makes me (and anyone who has known me longer than a year or two).

I have altered the versions a couple times and each one has been sensational. I personally like my veg to be a little less processed because I like to bite into a carrot every now and then, but feel free to process the heck out of the veggies to make the sauce more silken. I added miso paste to two batches to up the umami factor with very tasty results. Between the umami-packed miso and the Parmesan cheese rind, which lends a unique depth of flavor that cannot be emulated, the meat sauce has that awesome “Je ne sais quoi” quality that coaxes you to have bite after bite. Whether that is a good or bad thing is up to you (I do know that I have put on some pounds that are directly correlated to my increased sausage intake). Feel free to include miso and rinds if you have them on hand, but the meat sauce will be just as spectacular in their absence. Brief side note, you can now buy Parmesan cheese rinds at HEB.

In an effort to cut calories and ingest something of nutritional value, I typically eat my meat sauce with spaghetti squash versus pasta. Feel free to use fresh or dried pasta, squash, polenta or baked potatoes as your meat sauce vessel. I actually ate meat sauce soup on a least 10 different occasions. Don’t judge – I  love my meat.

 Meat Sauce 

Serves 4-6 (or one if you are me)

meat sauce

One medium yellow onion

One and one-half large carrots, peeled and cut into one-inch pieces

One celery stalk, cut into one-inch pieces

Ten garlic cloves

One 28-ounce can of whole peeled tomatoes

One pint Cherry Tomatoes, divided

One-Fourth cup Olive Oil

Kosher Salt and Freshly Ground Black Pepper To taste

Crushed Red Pepper, to taste

One-Half Cup Flat Leaf Parsley

Two Tablespoons Fresh Oregano

One pound hot Italian Pork Sausage (bulk or removed from casings)

One pound ground beef

One tablespoon tomato paste (plus a squeeze or two more)

One scant tablespoon Miso Paste (mellow) Optional

One Parmesan Rind (optional)

Two cups water (or beef stock)

One spaghetti squash, halved, seasoned and roasted

Ten Basil Leaves, Julienned

Three-fourths cup Pecorino Romano

In a large food processor, pulse onion, garlic, celery, carrot, oregano, and parsley and pulse until finely ground.  Transfer to a small bowl and reserve. Using the food processor, puree the tomatoes (juices included) until smooth. Heat oil in a large dutch oven (or other heavy pot) and add sausage and cook until browned (about four minutes). Add beef seasoned with salt, pepper and Italian seasoning (latter being optional) and brown until no longer pink. Transfer meat to a plate using a slotted spoon and reserve. Add reserved veggie mix to the pan, season with salt, and cook for about eight minutes (stir often). Combine tomato paste with one cup of water (or stock) in a small bowl and add to the pan, scraping the bottom bits. Reduce heat and simmer until liquid is nearly evaporated. Add tomato puree, crushed red pepper, half of the cherry tomatoes, one [additional] cup water – or stock – and the browned meat to the pan and bring to a boil. Upon achieving a boil, immediately reduce heat to a simmer. Add more water as necessary to ensure that the meat remains nearly submerged the entire cooking time.

Once the meat sauce has simmered for two to three hours, add the cheese rind and miso paste if using. Check for salt and pepper content and adjust as necessary throughout the cooking process. Simmer for an additional two to three hours and remove from heat. Roast remaining cherry tomatoes with olive oil, salt and pepper whilst the squash is roasting. Serve with roasted spaghetti squash (or other meat sauce vessel of choosing), topped with Pecorino Romano and Basil.

Beef and Barley Soup

I love beef and barley soup. I usually just buy a cup or two from Central Market (who makes a dang good version), but, during a recent freezer inventory I realized I had a lot of rump roast that needed using and opted to make my own version. You can add more (veggie wise) to this hearty soup  to up the nutrition ante, if you like. It is filling and perfect for cold winter nights. If you have homemade, good quality beef stock – this is a great showcase for it. If not, make sure to use a good-quality boxed broth (and/or some demi glace) for good depth.

Beef and Barley Soup

Serves Four to Eight 

One pound rump roast, cut into half-inch dice
One and one-half cups Hulled Barley
Six carrots, cut into large dice
Two yellow onions, cut into large dice
Twelve garlic cloves, minced
Two bay leaves
Five sprigs fresh thyme (more if desired)
Two sprigs fresh oregano
Three fresh sage leaves
Three celery stalks, cut into thin dice
Four tablespoons crushed red pepper
One pound mushrooms (I used white), quartered
One pound butternut squash, cut into quarter-inch cubes
One to two cups robust red wine or Burgundy (or white wine)
Three to Four quarts beef stock
Salt and Pepper to taste

Toss beef cubes with a good amount of salt, pepper, Italian herb blend, and cayenne. Heat a glug of olive oil in a large dutch oven over medium heat. Brown meat on all sides and remove from pan. Deglaze pan with a bit of red wine, beef broth, or Burgundy wine – scraping the brown bits on the  bottom up. Add onions and garlic (with a pinch of salt) and saute until glassy. Add celery, carrots, bay leaves, thyme, red pepper flakes and about a cup of red/white/or Burgundy wine. After about five minutes, add the beef broth, the reserved meat, mushrooms and barley. Turn heat to simmer and let it cook away for at least three hours. Taste occasionally and season to taste. About one and a half hours before serving, put butternut squash in the pot and stir well. Feel free to add peas or spinach in the last five minutes before serving if you wish to use them.  Serve with crusty bread.

Pulled Duck, Lamb and White Bean Stew

Recently (technically November 16th), we went to a lovely local bistro called Blue Dahlia for my dear friend Sarah’s birthday celebration. Their special for the evening was a play on Cassoulet (a classic french dish that can cure just about any ailment). It was a thick pulled duck, lamb sausage, white bean stew with a wonderfully spicy tomato-based stew pungent with fresh herbs (though had markedly less broth than my version). Even though I am dieting and trying to reduce the amount of food I eat, I at EVERY bite and then proceeded to lick the bowl. Clearly, I would have to replicate this dish (if possible). Luckily, they were gracious enough to tell me the main ingredients. Eventually, I will confit the duck and make an actual cassoulet, but right now I am changing jobs, preparing for the holidays, and trying to bang out my last papers of grad school so cassoulet will have to wait. Not that I mind much; the stew turned out quite amazing and I could smell it cooking down the hall from my apartment. It was so good in fact, I ate my first bowl with a few hard beans in it because I could not take the smell of it anymore.

Pulled Duck, Lamb and White Bean Stew

Serves at least Four

Two Duck Leg quarters
Half pound of Lamb shoulder, cut into one inch pieces (or one link Hot Italian lamb sausage)
Two Cups Great Northern or Navy Beans, soaked overnight
Three large tomatoes, quartered and roughly seeded
Three tablespoons crushed red pepper
Two Tablespoons Black Pepper
Salt to taste
Two tablespoons demi-glace du canard
One Large white onion, roughly diced
Bouquet garni of fresh Thyme Sprigs, Oregano, Sage, and Rosemary
One head garlic, roughly chopped
One cup dry white wine
Four cups Chicken Stock
One tablespoon tomato paste (more if desired)
Parmesan Rind (if you have one on hand)
Additionally garlic or garlic powder if desired

In a large dutch oven, sear the duck and lamb after seasoning it with salt and pepper. Remove from pan and heat onions and garlic until glassy. Pour in wine and just boil off. Return the meat to the pan and add crushed red pepper, bouquet garni, stock, tomato paste, demi glace, black pepper, a couple good pinches of salt, beans, and tomatoes. Let it hang out in the pan on a low heat for about 6 hours; it will start smelling all kinds of amazeballs. Taste test occasionally and add seasoning as desired. Serve with fresh herbs of choice and some crusty bread for soaking.

Wintery Steak Salad with Pesto Vinaigrette

My friend Susanna, who has perpetual leftovers, has been regaling me with stories of the wonderful dinners she has been enjoying with all the leftover steak from this weekend. It really gave me a hankering for a good steak salad. A lot of steak salads will be more southwestern (read charred bacon and corn, avocado, red onion) and, to be honest, at first I wanted to go that route – I even bought an avocado. Then I started feeling the need for a more comforting salad and picked up some butternut squash, just in case. Two days after the intended date, I created this manly out of stuff I already had minus the steak which I had purchased Monday; if you do not have any steak (fresh, leftover, or frozen) feel free to use chicken or crispy pancetta. You can throw whatever you have in here (I would have used spinach and arugula but ran out). This salad is hearty, healthy, tasty, comforting, and just darn good for winter. I added about a fourth-cup of garlicky bulgar, quinoa, and wild rice for some extra substance and because it was in the pantry – feel free to leave out (it is perfectly wonderful either way).

Note: This is a great weeknight dinner for the busy mom. It is high in nutrition, has great flavor, is very easy to make, and is healthy.  All in under thirty minutes.

Wintery Steak Salad

Serves Three

Half pound skirt steak (marinated as desired – I use Montreal, S & P, and Worcestershire)
One or more recipes Roasted Butternut Squash
One-half Gala Apple, sliced thinly
Small amount of Goat Cheese or other good soft cheese
Five cups Arugula, squeezed with a bit of lemon
One-Third cup basil pesto, mixed with one to two tablespoons red-wine or raspberry vinegar (to taste) and a dash of lemon
Fresh Cracked Pepper
Near East Whole Grain Blend Garlic (optional)

Prepare butternut squash and Whole Grain blend (if using) according to instructions. Marinate steak and allow to come to room temperature before cooking. Prepare the dressing whilst everything is cooking. Over a medium-high heat a bit of olive oil. Once hot, cook the steak for about four minutes on each side. Adjust cooking time to desired doneness and thickness of the meat; you will want to sear the meat to brown and caramelize the outside and keep the inside juicy – I like my steak mooing so I cook it accordingly (and give D the end pieces since he likes it more done). When the meat is cooked, remove to a cutting board and allow to rest for five minutes. In this time, divide arugula, butternut squash (inclusive of garlic and shallots), apples, cheese, and rice among three plates (or two plates and a Tupperware). Cut steak against the grain into thin slices or cubes and add to the salad. Dress as desired and crack black pepper to taste. Mix well and enjoy.

Shepherd’s Pie

I am half English and grew up eating (and loving) Shepard’s Pie. Every family has their own version of this comfort food! Since I have started cooking, I have created my own version of Shepard’s Pie and I am not sure my Dad is on board with it quite yet (as a good Brit, he does not boast the chili-belly that I inherited from my mother who was raised in Venezuela). I use both lamb and beef, my mother only used beef, generally called Cottage Pie, because she does not care for lamb. You can use whichever you prefer. One day soon I will make it the old-fashioned (and delicious) way by making a stew with the meat, but for now I typically stick with this quicker version for the weekdays. There are a million variations to this and you can try whatever you like (I can’t wait to). You ca:  use mashed sweet potatoes for higher nutrition; use garlic mashed potatoes; make cheesy potatoes, you can use mashed potatoes, parsnips, and turnips; add whatever veggies you would like (or have on hand).  Shepherd’s Pie can literally be whatever your heart desires.

I tend to use lamb because it is leaner (and also the authentic Shepherd’s Pie meat); also, I like to top it with garlic mashed potatoes and cheddar cheese. In my mashed potatoes, I sub a good amount of chicken broth for the milk to lower the calories and alleviate dairy-related complications. I also like my meat layer to be pretty saucey so that you can mix the juice with the potatoes.  So this is the version you are getting.

Shepherd’s Pie

For Meat Layer 

One tablespoon Olive oil
One large onion, diced
Four ounces pancetta, small dice (optional)
One large carrot, peeled and chopped
Six cloves garlic, minced
One pound ground lamb (or substitute half with another ground meat)
One cup beef broth (can sub chicken)
Worcestershire
Small handful of sun-dried tomatoes, minced (optional)
Small dash of red wine (optional and to taste)
One to two tablespoons tomato paste ( I like to use about 1.5 and I also like to use sun-dried tomato paste)
Season to taste with the following: Italian seasoning; garlic; salt; white pepper; crushed red pepper flakes, fresh thyme and rosemary (optional)
Two cups frozen peas

For Potatoes

Two pounds russet potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks
Three tablespoons unsalted butter
One-Third cup milk (any fat content)
One-half Cup Chicken Broth (adjust more to reach desired consistency)
Kosher salt to taste
Four to Six Cloves Roasted Garlic (can sub garlic paste or just garlic powder)
Salt and Pepper to Taste
One-half Cup Aged Cheddar Cheese, Shredded
One cup Green onions
Sprinkle of Paprika

Note: If you have a large, oven-proof stove-top dish, feel free to use it to make the meat layer and then be the baking vestibule (then you wont lose any flavor).

Preheat oven to 375°F.  In a large sauté pan over medium-high heat, heat the oil, then add the pancetta and brown. Then add the onion, garlic, carrot and saute for a few minutes. Add meat and cook until brown for a few minutes. Add the Worcestershire, Wine, Broth, Sun-Dried tomato paste, herbs and seasoning and simmer about 10 minutes. Add the peas, stir well and reserve.

Meanwhile, bring the potatoes to a boil in salted water. Cook until tender, about 20 minutes; drain. Mash the potatoes with the butter, milk, broth, garlic, salt and pepper. Spread them over the meat mixture, then crosshatch the top with a fork. Sprinkle mashed potatoes with paprika (and cayenne or Sriracha if desired). Bake for about 15 minutes, then remove and top with cheese. Bake for 20-30 minutes more (when crust is golden, cheese is melted, and meat stew is boiling). Once you remove the pie, top with green onions (or Chives) and let cool for a few minutes. Serve and Enjoy!

*You can add crispy shallots as garnish as well for a bit of texture.

Beef Stroganoff

I AM IN LOVE WITH THIS. I had never made beef stroganoff before, but was craving it. My friend Christine had tried something she really liked so she sent it over to me. I diverged from the recipe, but the technique of making pot roast before making it into stroganoff is just better than any other method of cooking this. This takes all day (though it is not particularly difficult) and is so worth it. The whole house smells like pot roast deliciousness and makes you want to eat everything! It is excellent with roasted broccoli and butternut squash on a cold night! This is also a great way to use up frozen beef in large quantities (which is exactly how I happened to make it the other night).

Beef Stroganoff

Serves Four, with leftovers

about 1-2 lb. whole, well marbled chuck roast
three large white onions
2 ribs celery (cut into inch pieces)
3-4 large carrot (cut into inch pieces)
Thyme (fresh or dried – if using dried use less)
Bay leaf – one or two
Olive oil
Beef or veal stock (1 to 1.5 boxes of Central Market or Pacific beef broth).
Handful of Oven roasted tomatoes (or tomato paste)
Chenin Blanc or other dry white (cognac, sherry or red wine would work too) – I think I use about 1/2 to 3/4 bottle
Worcestershire Sauce to taste
5-8 garlic cloves (depending on taste)
At least a pound of assorted mushrooms (crimini, baby bella, porcini or button mushrooms)
butter
flour
1 lemon, zest removed, reserved and juice reserved
about a half cup (heaping) sour cream
Flat leaf parsley, minced
Salt
Pepper
Grated Parmesan (optional)
2 T. crushed red pepper opt.
Beef or Veal or Mushroom Demi Glace (Williams Sonoma)– optional
Egg pasta (Whole package)

Cut room temperature chuck into cubes, about 2″ maximum, or have your butcher do this for you. Toss these pieces with plenty of salt, fresh ground black pepper and about 3 tablespoons minced thyme. In a large stockpot heat a generous amount of olive oil and brown the beef in batches, reserving meat on a plate once browned. Season and saute the mirepoix in the rendered beef fat and oil, using the sweating vegetables to begin to scrape up the beefy goodness from the bottom, until the onions are glassy. Return the meat to the pan and add stock, tomatoes and wine until just covered add to this about three tablespoons Worcestershire Sauce (more or less to taste), a few smashed garlic cloves and a few sprigs of thyme and red pepper. Braise on very low heat at least three hours (six is better).

Remove all of the chuck from the braising liquid, set on a plate, strain the cooking liquid, return to stock pot, begin reducing that liquid.Heat two tablespoons of butter in a large saute pan, season and saute mushrooms with chopped garlic ( I use an additional 3 cloves at least), reserved sliced onion (or additional – I use additional because I like the flavor), and crushed red pepper (to taste) until quite browned, remove mushrooms from the pan. Add two more tablespoons butter to the mushroom pan, allowing it to melt, add about 1/4 c. flour and whisk to make a roux, allow it to color, but not brown. Deglaze that pan with a little extra stock and the lemon juice, scraping up as much as possible. If using demi glace – add now.

Now pour braising liquid into the large saute pan. Continue to cook as long as you can, at least 15 minutes to reduce the liquid until you have about a one and a half cups to two remaining. (Start the pasta water, that will be a good metric to follow). Remove pan from heat, stir in sour cream, salt and pepper to taste. Toss minced zest with minced fresh parsley and Parmesan. Serve.

Meaty Porcini Marinara

This week’s cooking spree continued with homemade “meaty marinara.” I call it this because marinara is traditionally a tomato sauce and a Bolognese is a meaty version of marinara in a round-about-way. But, to the dismay of Italian cooks everywhere, I made a bastardized version of both and have chosen to call it meaty marinara. It was my first ever attempt at making either marinara (not surprising since I do not eat marinara) or meat sauce, and it was really – ummm -incredible. This accompanied turkey and arugula pizza pockets, but it would be wonderful tossed with fresh pasta and a bit of cheese, tossed with gnocchi, or made into a pizza sauce. If you choose to use Porcini, you will need to be dried as they only grow in Italy and must be imported. You can either grind them or you can reconstitute them in liquid before adding them to the sauce. This is a great sauce to make and then let hang out on the stove whilst you turn your attention to something else. Additionally, it gets better the longer it sits and this includes fridge time. Make a big batch and freeze it or use it to make three different dishes over a three or four day span.

I fear I must apologize as this “recipe” was concocted in true Andiland style. I threw stuff in a pan (without measuring as always) and then adjusted as necessary. The measurements I provide below are guesses at best, feel free to adjust to your preferences.

Note: I did not add celery to my Soffrito, only garlic, onions, and carrot. I did use celery seed in the sauce as a replacement. You can use whichever you like.

Meaty Porcini Marinara

Two slices Bacon
1/3 pound of Hot Italian Pork Sausage (bulk)
Four Large Shallots, sliced
12 Cloves Garlic, whole and slightly crushed (skin removed)
3/4 Tube of Good Quality Tomato Paste
Two Tablespoons Butter
Red Wine (I used a Malbec), about a half a cup
Beef Broth, about 2 and a half cups
Chicken Broth, about a half cup (this was added to thin the sauce out some and is optional)
About a quarter cup of porcini mushrooms, either ground or reconstituted
Three tablespoons Herbs de Provence and Italian Seasoning, split
A couple good pinches of salt
Three tablespoons black pepper
One large carrot, diced
One tablespoon celery seed (or a few stalks of celery cut into large dice)
One tablespoon crushed red pepper flakes (adjust according to preferences)
12 campari tomatoes on the vine, halved and gently squeezed of seeds
Fresh torn basil for garnish

In a large dutch oven, heat a couple glugs of olive oil over a medium heat high. Once fat is smoking, add bacon (or its porky sub) and all to crisp. Then add hot Italian sausage and brown slightly. Push meat to the side and add the soffrito (carrot, onion, garlic, celery seed) with a touch of salt. Once the onions turn glassy, add the tomatoes, salt, pepper, HDP and Italian Seasoning, Crushed Red Pepper, Tomato Paste, Ground Mushroom, and give a good stir to mix everything well. Then add in wine and broth (in 1:2 ratio), reduce heat and cover. Allow to simmer for a few hours (I cooked it for about four hours). Adjust seasoning as necessary. Once you are ready to serve, use an immersion blender to partially puree the mixture. Top with basil and serve or reserve for use with pasta else.

A few ideas of uses for this sauce:

Dipping Sauce for Pizza Pockets
Sauce for pasta and veggies
Lasagnameat sauce
Served individually with a little bit of cheese and fresh basil
Pizza sauce

Wasabi-Hoisin Marinated Flank Steak with Mango Salsa and Coconut Rice

I realize that there are two very similar posts back to back with the Wasabi crusted fish, but when I make fish I also make either chicken or beef for D. Ergo, you are getting beef and fish versions of this wonderful dish (you can also do this dish with spicy marinated shrimp but I will not confuse you that much today).

Beef

1/2 pound Flank Steak3 tbsp Wasabi Paste
Half Cup Soy Sauce
Dash of Mirin
Powered or minced Ginger
Powdered or minced garlic
3 Tbsp Hoisin or Eel Sauce
2 Tbsp Sriracha
Squeeze of lime
1.5 tbsp honey or sugar
Crushed red pepper flakes – to taste (optional)

Combine all ingredients in a bowl and marinate overnight. Adjust flavors according to preference- add whatever you like! When ready to cook the beef, coat well with salt and pepper (and maybe a bit of wasabi powder), and heat oil in a pan. Place beef in pan and sear well on each side. Remove from heat, allow to sit for five minutes then cut meat into thick slices. If meat is cooked to desired doneness then begin assembly. To cook longer, return slices to pan and add a bit of the marinade and stir fry for a few additional minutes. Remove from pan and begin assembly of dish.

Dish Assembly

One recipe Coconut Rice
Asian Mango Salsa
Fried Shallots

Place a small mound of rice in the center of a plate (can be done in free form, with a molding ring, or with an upside down measuring cup. Place the beef on top of the rice once it has finished searing. Drizzle steak with a bit of the reduced marinade (or eel sauce) then top with the Mango Salsa. Top the Salsa with Fried Shallots and serve.